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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all. First off, I'm not looking for a prefab box to use. I'll build one myself.

I actually was wondering if anyone has had success putting another 10 in the original enclosure? I know its not all that great, but its probably .8ish cu ft sealed and I have a few 10" subs laying around that would probably be happy there and don't take much power.

What are you all using for a LOC? I have an AudioControl LC2i laying around, but am wondering if these have the same bass rolloff issues that the LC2i fixes? I have a a few small 2 channel amps too that will do the trick. I did a single 10" with

Any other wierdness to look for? Odd EQing that the LC2i can't fix? Muddy bass? Resonant frequency from noise cancellation system built into the audio system? Just curious if there are any quirks that make it not worth it.
 

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So you ask complex system questions but want cheap solution basically unless I misunderstand you. That plastic box will sound like a dogs ass with almost any driver in it. JL makes a nice one that will fit in oem spot, otherwise you'll want to glass one in. not sure if LC2 will convert the digital signal in the jeep unless you just grab a high level speaker signal. Pac makes an adaptor that will convert the can bus audio to analog/spdif digital and you could just run that into a decent mono amp.
 

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As stated, JL makes a stealth box that fits in the OEM spot. I have installed this and it sounds great for me - the right amount of bass without being heard a block away. I installed the amp behind the rear seats under the flap so it lays flat when both rear seats are down - hidden and out of the way but reachable should I need to adjust anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I could remove the spare and do that, but am really just looking for a little more. The LC2 connects to a speaker level signal. I have a couple and they work out really well. I did a Boston G1 10" in a ported box in the spare compartment in my CTS-V Wagon off a 150 watt amp and it worked perfect. I did a JL 8" in my F150 and it sounds really good too. On that one I had to kill the factory EQ with forscan though. I'l mock something up and give it a try.
 

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Guess I'm an old dude. I think the HK system is really good as-is. Of course, my list of hip-hop tracks is nil.
I have to agree. The 19 speaker HK system in the TH compared to my first car with just AM radio and one speaker in the dash is something else. Of course the HK system cost as much as my first car, that was just two years old. A 1968 camaro, 327, 4 speed, one that I now wished I kept.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Played around with the audio settings. Noticed that if I turn the bass above 3, it has no effect on the sub, but cranks up the bass in the door speakers. They must not have gotten phase right, because they tend to cancel out the sub. With bass set to 0-3, the bass from the sub is more audible and much cleaner. Just thought I'd share. I'm still going to play around more when I get a chance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hey all, just an update on this. I finally found some info on another Jeep forum on how to disable active noise cancellation on our Jeeps and it is really simple. Just gently pull down the headliner on the sides of the sunroof. There is just velcro attaching it there and it separates. Then look in and look for the wires that run to the ANC mics. There is a plug that you can reach into and disconnect. All you have to do is disconnect the front two and you are good. I noticed absolutely no difference in interior noise with it off. I called my wife with bluetooth while driving with ANC disconnected and she could tell no difference either. I use a Audiocontrol LC2i to convert the signal to the subwoofer to line out and connected that to a 200w 2 channel amp. Ran a couple 10's and bass is much more musical and punchy. The midbass tones are a little accentuated on this signal, so a processor would help. That being said, it is fine for the type of music I listen to. I noticed that leaving the factory sub in cancels out the aftermarket subs, but they sound so much better on their own and play in phase with the midbass in the door. It really does seem like the factory sub may have been wired out of phase. One of these days I might try to reverse the pins on the plugs to the factory sub and see if I like that better.
 

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I too am not very impressed with the Harmon Kardon upgraded stereo. I guess I shouldn't be surprised. I have ordered upgraded stereo from many OEM manufacturers and they never really live up the advertising. Going with the stealth sub might be the way to go to more bass. What about long term speaker quality for the rest of the speakers?
 

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I went with the stealth but placed the amp in the spare tire section just removing the right spare container under the sub. Sounds great! Definitely a serious upgrade over the HK.
Chris
 

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I too am not very impressed with the Harmon Kardon upgraded stereo. I guess I shouldn't be surprised. I have ordered upgraded stereo from many OEM manufacturers and they never really live up the advertising. Going with the stealth sub might be the way to go to more bass. What about long term speaker quality for the rest of the speakers?
I "think" you will end up swapping out all the speakers adding a sound processor and going full tilt. I noticed in the stereo world most people are happy with factory or have to go full tilt. Now you might not be most people though. If you do just add the JL box and sub I will be very curious if you are happy with it or fell its lacking?
 

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I went with the stealth but placed the amp in the spare tire section just removing the right spare container under the sub. Sounds great! Definitely a serious upgrade over the HK.
Chris
what amp did you add? was amp just for sub? or sound processor amp for the whole system? do the components keep up with the sub?
 

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What are you all using for a LOC? I have an AudioControl LC2i laying around, but am wondering if these have the same bass rolloff issues that the LC2i fixes? I have a a few small 2 channel amps too that will do the trick. .
I use the Pac Audio AP4-CH41. This is basically an "add an amp" product from Pac Audio. You remove the head unit and this device has a harness that plugs in between the factory harness and the back of the radio. What you get is RCA outs for your sub, the remote power (turn on), and a volume control knob for your sub. It is a plug and play installation and can easily be returned to stock. I used this on my 2014 SRT and my 2018 Trackhawk to add the JL Audio stealth box. It's expensive compared to an LOC but avoids all the wire splicing and signal summing devices. I bought mine from Crutchfield but I see them at multiple places online.

What I've been told about these systems is that the signal processing is done by the factory amp. In other words, the head unit sends a full range signal to the factory amp, then the factory amp decides what frequencies go to which speakers. The idea of the Pac unit is to intercept that full range signal before it hits the factory amp. It actually has front and rear outs too if you wanted to do a full system upgrade. I just don't use them because I only upgraded the sub. I do my own installs but not an audio professional. I welcome confirmation of the above from someone in the industry. I do not notice any bass roll off but I also don't have any test equipment to prove it.

It's worth mentioning that I haven't had the sine wav issues in either of my Jeeps using this product. I've not had to unplug any microphones in the headliner.
 

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I use the Pac Audio AP4-CH41. This is basically an "add an amp" product from Pac Audio. You remove the head unit and this device has a harness that plugs in between the factory harness and the back of the radio. What you get is RCA outs for your sub, the remote power (turn on), and a volume control knob for your sub. It is a plug and play installation and can easily be returned to stock. I used this on my 2014 SRT and my 2018 Trackhawk to add the JL Audio stealth box. It's expensive compared to an LOC but avoids all the wire splicing and signal summing devices. I bought mine from Crutchfield but I see them at multiple places online.

What I've been told about these systems is that the signal processing is done by the factory amp. In other words, the head unit sends a full range signal to the factory amp, then the factory amp decides what frequencies go to which speakers. The idea of the Pac unit is to intercept that full range signal before it hits the factory amp. It actually has front and rear outs too if you wanted to do a full system upgrade. I just don't use them because I only upgraded the sub. I do my own installs but not an audio professional. I welcome confirmation of the above from someone in the industry. I do not notice any bass roll off but I also don't have any test equipment to prove it.

It's worth mentioning that I haven't had the sine wav issues in either of my Jeeps using this product. I've not had to unplug any microphones in the headliner.

The PAC AP4-CH41 is not tested in the 2019. I went with the PAC LP7-2R line output converter. Does anyone know the wires I need to tap into at the factory amp for this?
 

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Does anyone have schematics of the HK system in a Grand Cherokee?
I'm assuming by your choice of LOC that you are just going to add an aftermarket sub. If I'm wrong about that, post back.

If you are having trouble finding the factory pin outs, one simple trick is to just go directly to the factory sub. The sub has a quick disconnect on it. Once you unplug, you'll have the sub outs from the factory amp in hand. Cut the plug off but cut a few inches back so you've got some wire to work with if you chose to return it to stock. Hang on to that plug. You can even mount that LOC behind the panel that hides the factory sub. There's lots of room back there.

I've tapped wires off factory amps in previous cars and you'll tend to find that there's a lot more tension / less wire length to work with. The Jeep amps are pretty accessible in the left rear of the vehicle but still tucked in there. If your just trying to grab a sub signal, you'll find a lot more play and room to work with on the right side using the wiring going to the factory sub. Hope this helps man. Good luck!
 

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I'm assuming by your choice of LOC that you are just going to add an aftermarket sub. If I'm wrong about that, post back.

If you are having trouble finding the factory pin outs, one simple trick is to just go directly to the factory sub. The sub has a quick disconnect on it. Once you unplug, you'll have the sub outs from the factory amp in hand. Cut the plug off but cut a few inches back so you've got some wire to work with if you chose to return it to stock. Hang on to that plug. You can even mount that LOC behind the panel that hides the factory sub. There's lots of room back there.

I've tapped wires off factory amps in previous cars and you'll tend to find that there's a lot more tension / less wire length to work with. The Jeep amps are pretty accessible in the left rear of the vehicle but still tucked in there. If your just trying to grab a sub signal, you'll find a lot more play and room to work with on the right side using the wiring going to the factory sub. Hope this helps man. Good luck!

Yes, I am adding a LOC to my JL Audio amp to power the Stealthbox. I like the idea of tapping the wires going to the factory Sub. I have 4 wires on the LOC and wanted to know which wires on the factory harness to plug into.
 
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