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I have lowered my TH with Eibach springs. I have been told to use the factory specs for alignment. Seems they are a bit wide. I am running stock size tires. Anyone have better specs for using lowering springs? In spec, the tire look cambered out a bit and castor spec seems hard to reach.
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Doug
 

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I have lowered my TH with Eibach springs. I have been told to use the factory specs for alignment. Seems they are a bit wide. I am running stock size tires. Anyone have better specs for using lowering springs? In spec, the tire look cambered out a bit and castor spec seems hard to reach.
Thanks
Doug
So I just went thru this after installing the springs and Bwoody suspension kit Yesterday.
"in speck" is BS there is a huge tolerance they allow. mine was "in speck" but the shop used the Bwoody camber kit anyways and has it set a lot better then just in speck. he was explaining camber and what the factory allows etc etc all of it over my head lol (im pretty retarded but I lift heavy things) I can post what my numbers are when I get home I think I keep the paper work.
what I got from talking to him was the TH would of been "in speck" with out the Bwoody camber parts but it just isnt good, now it is. So I think theres a few guys running around "in speck" but not set proper.
 

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In spec according to factory standards for 15k+ miles on the springs now. No issues, no abnormal tire wear.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Factory specifications do allow for some variance but even the lowest camber settings are going to look "wider" or leaning more than your common mall crawler SUV as this vehicle is set up for performance, and not just in a straight line.

You are welcome to have the shop bring your camber in if you want to make the tires appear to be more square to the body and/or improve tire wear but it is at the detriment of cornering performance.

Sure, a partial degree or so may not be noticeable for your driving style, I in fact did have them set my rear camber at -1.2 degrees which is just slightly less camber than middle point of the specs, but its worth noting the engineers set them up originally with negative camber on purpose so I definitely would not go below -.8 (low side of factory suggested).

Another note is that the vehicles have very little adjustment from the factory, available primarily to account for tolerances in the parts during original assembly. What this means is that two vehicles off the assembly line may have the same overall alignment / camber, but the adjustments may be in different spots to make this happen.

So once you begin lowering a vehicle, one person may be able to get back in spec while another may not (without additional parts exchanged), all depends on how low you go and where the factory parts fell within the tolerances.
 
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Seems like Bwoody sells the springs with a $30 or so kit that brings it closer to OEM specs (rather than being in specs but in the outer limit). Seems like a no brainer.
 
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