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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Was looking to go to town on the calipers and wheels on the new truck and wanted to know what everyone was using to keep them clean. I have done some research and already ordered new Powerstop Z36s for the front and back as i know that's half the battle. I heard Carguys Hybrid Wax is great for maintenance/repelling of brake dust and road grime along with Griot's 3-in-1 or Maguire's Wheel Cleaner. What about an initial deep cleaning of the wheels and calipers? I am going to have them off to do the brakes so really want to get in there. I would assume the CRC Brakleen (red can) would NOT be good for our calipers and/or wheels (i have the black painted stockers) but what about the green can? I've heard good things about Poorboy's World Spray and Rinse Wheel Cleaner just want to make sure they don't damage the yellow calipers or black wheels before i use them. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
 

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damn how dirty are they? I drive in the rain no snow but mine always just cleaned with soap and water. I clean them every time I wash TH though I cant stand dirty wheels or calipers. you can ceramic coat them that will help also I never needed it though I keep my junk clean. you are correct brake pads are half the battle.
 

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Just Curious, here is some info from the SRT supplement:

Track burnishing your brakes
To avoid “green lining fade” during track use,
the brake pads and rotors must have a thermal
burnish for factory-installed components or
when new brake friction components are
installed:
1. Use one track session to burnish brakes by
driving at 75% speed. Brake at approximately
0.60 - 0.80g max without Anti-Lock
Brake System (ABS) intervention.
2. Complete one lap in this manner until you
start smelling the brakes. Continue for
another half lap at speed, then complete a
two-lap cooldown with minimal brake
applications. Ensure the brakes are not
smoking. If they are, complete another
cooldown lap.
3. Getting the brakes to smoke is an indication
that the brakes have overheated and may
negatively affect future track usage.
4. Allow vehicle to sit and cool for at least
30 minutes. If an infrared thermal gun is
available, allow rotors to cool to 200°F
(93.3°C) before returning to the track.
5. There should be a thin layer of ash when
inspecting the brake pads. Having the ash
layer go more than half the thickness of the
pad material is a sign of an overly
aggressive burnish.
6. Occasionally, a second burnish session is
required. If the brake pads begin to emit an
odor during the next track session, reduce
vehicle speed and braking deceleration rate
to burnish targets and follow steps 2-4.
7. New brake pads installed on old rotors
require a burnish. New rotors installed with
old brake pads should be burnished at the
track or driven for 300 miles (485 km) of
city driving to develop an adequate lining
transfer layer on the rotor surface prior to
track use.
8. Rotors that pulsate during track use should
be replaced.
NOTE:
Resurfacing of the rotors is not recommended,
as it removes mass from the rotor, reducing its
thermal capacity. Resurfacing also thins the
rotor cheek, making it less robust and
increasing the likelihood of pulsation in further
track use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
damn how dirty are they? I drive in the rain no snow but mine always just cleaned with soap and water. I clean them every time I wash TH though I cant stand dirty wheels or calipers. you can ceramic coat them that will help also I never needed it though I keep my junk clean. you are correct brake pads are half the battle.
Not crazy dirty, just got the truck and decided to break her in by road tripping it 1,500 miles from the dealership back east so its just the normal brake dust and road grime. The truck was spotless when i bought it so i doubt it would take a lot to get the wheels and calipers clean just want to do a good job since i'll have the wheels off to do the brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Just Curious, here is some info from the SRT supplement:

Track burnishing your brakes
To avoid “green lining fade” during track use,
the brake pads and rotors must have a thermal
burnish for factory-installed components or
when new brake friction components are
installed:
1. Use one track session to burnish brakes by
driving at 75% speed. Brake at approximately
0.60 - 0.80g max without Anti-Lock
Brake System (ABS) intervention.
2. Complete one lap in this manner until you
start smelling the brakes. Continue for
another half lap at speed, then complete a
two-lap cooldown with minimal brake
applications. Ensure the brakes are not
smoking. If they are, complete another
cooldown lap.
3. Getting the brakes to smoke is an indication
that the brakes have overheated and may
negatively affect future track usage.
4. Allow vehicle to sit and cool for at least
30 minutes. If an infrared thermal gun is
available, allow rotors to cool to 200°F
(93.3°C) before returning to the track.
5. There should be a thin layer of ash when
inspecting the brake pads. Having the ash
layer go more than half the thickness of the
pad material is a sign of an overly
aggressive burnish.
6. Occasionally, a second burnish session is
required. If the brake pads begin to emit an
odor during the next track session, reduce
vehicle speed and braking deceleration rate
to burnish targets and follow steps 2-4.
7. New brake pads installed on old rotors
require a burnish. New rotors installed with
old brake pads should be burnished at the
track or driven for 300 miles (485 km) of
city driving to develop an adequate lining
transfer layer on the rotor surface prior to
track use.
8. Rotors that pulsate during track use should
be replaced.
NOTE:
Resurfacing of the rotors is not recommended,
as it removes mass from the rotor, reducing its
thermal capacity. Resurfacing also thins the
rotor cheek, making it less robust and
increasing the likelihood of pulsation in further
track use.
I was going to do the bedding process when i installed the new pads. Didn't look to be a difficult process at all but step 7 did add a bit more info. She's kind of a DD so those 300 miles will come in time. Good info tho thank you and will keep this in mind/make it part of my process after i install the new pads.
 

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Definitely keep things like CRC brake clean away from wheels and calipers. I like to use Simple Green or Orange Clean (Any brand of citric acid based foaming cleaner) on the backsides of wheels to get brake dust and any heavy road grime or grease (think BWoody suspension fittings) off of them. Then coat with a protective paint sealer, ceramic or your wax of choice. Also works on dirty calipers using the same products.
 

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Well if my wheels get stupid dirty like caught in a rain storm, etc...I will stop by one of those manual car washes and spray off the wheels and calipers and then go home and when cool wipe them off with a towel saturated with instant detail spray. Note: don't ever spray wheel and rotor directly...this is why I just saturate a towel away from the vehicle and then wipe it all off.

BUT I use this method only because I have had both my wheels and calipers coated with Ceramic Pro (and installed new Gorilla black lug nuts also).

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Vehicle Tread
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Definitely keep things like CRC brake clean away from wheels and calipers. I like to use Simple Green or Orange Clean (Any brand of citric acid based foaming cleaner) on the backsides of wheels to get brake dust and any heavy road grime or grease (think BWoody suspension fittings) off of them. Then coat with a protective paint sealer, ceramic or your wax of choice. Also works on dirty calipers using the same products.
I didn't think the CRC would be good for either the calipers or rims so didnt even look to buy any of that stuff. I was looking at Poorboy's World Spray and Rinse wheel to tackle the brake dust and grime but the citric acid seems less harsh on the wheels and calipers i might have to look into that.

I'm going to try CARPRO Ceramic coating on the calipers and wheels to see how it fares there with the crap from the street. My Powerstops are coming in Monday so ill throw them in first chance i get to combat the dust.

I appreciate the advice
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well if my wheels get stupid dirty like caught in a rain storm, etc...I will stop by one of those manual car washes and spray off the wheels and calipers and then go home and when cool wipe them off with a towel saturated with instant detail spray. Note: don't ever spray wheel and rotor directly...this is why I just saturate a towel away from the vehicle and then wipe it all off.

BUT I use this method only because I have had both my wheels and calipers coated with Ceramic Pro (and installed new Gorilla black lug nuts also).

View attachment 9258
Wheels and calipers look great man! Thats how they looked once i got the truck. Then 1,500 miles later looks like i went thru a mudslide. I do like the idea of the towel with the instant detail spray for a quick reshine. I might keep that handy and try that if i get caught in nasty rain like you said or just had a long trip with her.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well if my wheels get stupid dirty like caught in a rain storm, etc...I will stop by one of those manual car washes and spray off the wheels and calipers and then go home and when cool wipe them off with a towel saturated with instant detail spray. Note: don't ever spray wheel and rotor directly...this is why I just saturate a towel away from the vehicle and then wipe it all off.

BUT I use this method only because I have had both my wheels and calipers coated with Ceramic Pro (and installed new Gorilla black lug nuts also).

View attachment 9258
Had the black lugs in my Amazon cart, now i have them being shipped thanks to your photo.
 

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Had the black lugs in my Amazon cart, now i have them being shipped thanks to your photo.
Gotta have the black lugs, that chrome is horrible if u have the black rims. I had lug nuts, SRT center caps and weather tech floor mats waiting for when the Jeep arrived. Also did full ceramic Pro immediately, wish I would’ve done PPF to the paint too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Gotta have the black lugs, that chrome is horrible if u have the black rims. I had lug nuts, SRT center caps and weather tech floor mats waiting for when the Jeep arrived. Also did full ceramic Pro immediately, wish I would’ve done PPF to the paint too.
That ceramic is sure the way to go. Bought the CARPRO kit to DIY and will see how i do with it. Not much of a detailer, more of a wrench turner so trying not to screw it up too bad lol.

Yea man, those chromes on black are rough esp when the truck is blacked out (which mine is) so the lugs were a no brainer. I had them in the cart waiting as i looking up detailing stuff but i just went ahead and bought it after seeing the photo of em
 

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wish I would’ve done PPF to the paint too.
I hear you...and I just got mine back today from my detail guy and we installed the complete front Xpel clear bra to include the headlights and the mirrors...so happy to have this done because here in Arizona the rock chips can be devastating. We also coated the clear bra with Ceramic Pro to make it easier to clean.

This Hawk also came from California so had a front license plate holder installed...we removed that (had to touch it up a bit) and I bought Redline "bumper plugs" and we installed those on top of the clear bra...the front end looks so much better now :)
Automotive parking light Car Vehicle Automotive side marker light Grille
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I hear you...and I just got mine back today from my detail guy and we installed the complete front Xpel clear bra to include the headlights and the mirrors...so happy to have this done because here in Arizona the rock chips can be devastating. We also coated the clear bra with Ceramic Pro to make it easier to clean.

This Hawk also came from California so had a front license plate holder installed...we removed that (had to touch it up a bit) and I bought Redline "bumper plugs" and we installed those on top of the clear bra...the front end looks so much better now :) View attachment 9259
She came out awesome man. Looking forward to doing the Ceramic on mine. Detail guy was def worth the shine and protection you got.
 

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She came out awesome man. Looking forward to doing the Ceramic on mine. Detail guy was def worth the shine and protection you got.
Thanks man...and the Hawk is going back in next month to de-badge the entire vehicle and replace the clear bra pieces along the bottom rear in front of the rear wheels (they are not too bad but figured while I am at it) and then a stage 1 paint correction over the entire vehicle and then a 2 yr Ceramic Pro coating.

Then it will be time to just enjoy for a while :)
 

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I use these brushes for getting in there and scrubbing everything. They work very well. I can clean the entire width of the rim and the small one does a good job of scrubbing the caliper.

Amazon.com: HMPLL 3Pcs Wheel Woolies Wheel Brushes, Metal Free Synthetic Wool Wheel Cleaning Brush, Extended Reach Wheel Gerbils, Wheel and Rim Brushes for Cleaning Wheels, Rims, Exhaust Tip, No Scratching: Garden & Outdoor
Wheel woolies are great!

For wheels, I typically use P21S Gel, as it has a relatively low PH and won't damage the finish like more caustic cleaners can be prone to doing. P21S WHEEL CLEANERS gel and regular
Some people like to use an iron remover like Ferrex: Optimum FerreX Iron Remover
I've also had good luck with the Sonax wheel cleaners. They are much more aggressive than P21S if that's what you need: Auto Geek- Your Car Wax SuperStore, Car Wax, Auto Detailing Supplies , Car Accessories, Car Buffers Store, We Are Car Care

Also, I try to be gentle on the wheels, so I give them a good washing with typical car soap (following the rinsing off of the P21S) and then wipe them down using a polymer spray as lubricant to avoid any potential scratching or marring. I like Opti Clean for drying/wiping things, as it helps keep things lubricated and dries perfectly. Optimum Opti Clean Cleaner & Protectant, Opticlean all purpose cleaner protectant

Following that, you can apply any sealant or wax you want, but that doesn't really help much in my experience.

For the tires, I like Opti Bond gel, as it doesn't sling all over like typical tire dressings. Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel, Tire gel protectant, OPT Tire Dressing Gel, protect tires, optibond tire gel 303 is also a good product: 303 Aerospace Protectant 10 oz.

I'm just linking to Autogeek, as that's where I buy my stuff, but you can get all of these products from a number of different companies or likely on Amazon.
 

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I use these brushes for getting in there and scrubbing everything. They work very well. I can clean the entire width of the rim and the small one does a good job of scrubbing the caliper.

Amazon.com: HMPLL 3Pcs Wheel Woolies Wheel Brushes, Metal Free Synthetic Wool Wheel Cleaning Brush, Extended Reach Wheel Gerbils, Wheel and Rim Brushes for Cleaning Wheels, Rims, Exhaust Tip, No Scratching: Garden & Outdoor
Nice tip on the brushes thanks, I use an old pair of women’s pantyhose tied in knots and that works pretty well. No reach though.
 

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I have a TH on order and I am nutso about keeping the wheels clean on my SRT so I’ll chime in…

My 17’ GC SRT has the black satin wheels. I have Brembo pads. I start by blasting them with the power washer to get heavy gunk off. I then use Chemical Guys Diablo wheel cleaner diluted 3:1. This wheel cleaner is safe on all surfaces and about $60/gallon. I use Wheel Woolies to clean the inner wheel and behind wheel spokes, boar’s hair detailing brush for lug nuts and center caps, and microfiber cloth for the face of the wheel. I use the boar’s hair brush on the calipers as well.

I’m definitely going to ceramic coat the wheels and calipers when the TH arrives, got high hopes it makes cleaning quicker bc it takes me a good 30-40 min to clean ad dry my SRT wheels right now…which is too long.
 

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Gotta have the black lugs, that chrome is horrible if u have the black rims. I had lug nuts, SRT center caps and weather tech floor mats waiting for when the Jeep arrived. Also did full ceramic Pro immediately, wish I would’ve done PPF to the paint too.
From where did you order the SRT center caps?
 
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