[ROCKETW19]

Does this happen often? I have a CEL P026A thats fuel pressure code. I swapped fuel rail and sensor I swapped fuel pump and the CEL same code came back on. My buddy data logged the fuel and everything the tune asked for the truck gave it with in few pounds.
there is nothing else to do I did every thing so my question is can a CEL just turn on? maybe a mis ready or computer is slow to send the info i dont know but I do know pressure is not low or high.

question 2 is adding a boost a pump bad I was thinking to make sure pressure is high and even more then it wants, or is that just as bad as low?

any and all input is welcome I know nothing about fuel systems thanks for your time.

 

[Lil Hemi]

I found this on the hellcat forum. Sounds like you should do the passenger side fuel rail when you do the sensor.

https://www.hellcat.org/threads/help-fighting-p062a-code-for-over-a-year.218817/

 

[ThawkMike]

Cel, sounds like a sensor isn’t seeing what it wants to see. Tough to say.


BAP:

You’ll need to be retuned if you do a BAP. BAP won’t give you high pressure with a proper tune, it just gives you more head room above current pump pressure/volume capability.

Problem with them, they boost voltage beyond what a particular electric motor (and wiring) is designed to see. They work as advertised, but are generally seen as cheap band aides for sub par fuel systems for the power you are running. Big money on the other end of a cheap fix.

That said, I have used them, and had problems. But I’ve also had problems with $4k return style systems as well ... lol

This is the melted inline fuse from a BAP install before I went full return style.dual pump.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Lil Hemi]

So you didn’t find anything with that connector?

To catch everyone up, the SC was removed to add the spacer plates, he’s had this issue ever since. Found out there was an issue with the Orings on the spacers were out of position due to an install issue and an electrical connection had been damaged.

 

[ROCKETW19]

I found this on the hellcat forum. Sounds like you should do the passenger side fuel rail when you do the sensor.

https://www.hellcat.org/threads/help-fighting-p062a-code-for-over-a-year.218817/

thats the only way you can get the sensor is buying the whole rail 313.87 lol already dud that and pump

I read all 7 pages of that thread and where i got most of my info from. thank you

 

[ROCKETW19]

Cel, sounds like a sensor isn’t seeing what it wants to see. Tough to say.


BAP:

You’ll need to be retuned if you do a BAP. BAP won’t give you high pressure with a proper tune, it just gives you more head room above current pump pressure/volume capability.

Problem with them, they boost voltage beyond what a particular electric motor (and wiring) is designed to see. They work as advertised, but are generally seen as cheap band aides for sub par fuel systems for the power you are running. Big money on the other end of a cheap fix.

That said, I have used them, and had problems. But I’ve also had problems with $4k return style systems as well ... lol

This is the melted inline fuse from a BAP install before I went full return style.dual pump.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

yikes. I shouldnt need a BAP but I was just trying to throw any thing out there lol. I only have the S1025 package all 900 other TH with the same power levels dont need a BAP I shouldnt either but if it was cheap insurance I would do it. but seems like it can add issues so I will pass on that idea lol thank you

 

[ROCKETW19]

So you didn’t find anything with that connector?

To catch everyone up, the SC was removed to add the spacer plates, he’s had this issue ever since. Found out there was an issue with the Orings on the spacers were out of position due to an install issue and an electrical connection had been damaged.

Yes the fuel pressure sensor on the rail had that wire extend. My installer had a hard time with it so he extended it for the future. (he knows I will do more go fast )

So I asked another buddy who owns a TH also if he would shorten the wires back to stock length in case resistance or something the computer didnt like. He put wires back to stock length and drove it so far about 20-30 miles no CEL Yet but we will see. it has done this before it would drive normal and out of no where just pop a CEL. SO hopefully the wires back to normal it wont happen anymore. I do not know enough about electrical to know if longer wires matter I do not know how resistance works either lol.

I am pretty sure it cant be tune related as it would do this from day 1 so I am lost if it pops up again I have zero clue what to do next. the shortening of the wires was my last hope we will see, lol.

 

[Lil Hemi]

Length of the wire shouldn’t have anything to do with it. I bet the connector was the problem. Hope so at least. Good luck.