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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got these installed, and wanted to offer impressions... especially as it relates to ride quality, as this was my biggest concern of all.

A little background... I have had my TH for just over a year and have 7200 miles on it. So I've lived with the vehicle for some time now, and feel like I'm pretty sensitive to even small changes since I drive it daily (even if not very far).

I'm very pleased to say that ride quality has not been compromised. I am honestly shocked. I figured it would bounce all over like if we put the suspension in Track Mode (which is awful for driving on the street, regardless of how nice the pavement is... you feel _every_ small change in elevation). In Auto, the difference is negligible in ride quality. I will confess that where I live we have above-average roads as far as condition goes. So I haven't (and won't often) driven on really rough surfaces, yet. I did get to take it through some hard cornering maneuvers today, and it definitely holds the road better. It is also noticeable from the driving position that the vehicle sits 1.5+" lower. I like that. :)

Overall, just like the Borla cat-back I recently installed, there is no noticeable increase in NVH; and this was my biggest concern with both mods. Honestly, if someone were unfamiliar with the TH, they could easily think the suspension and exhaust were OEM. Both mods are just a slight step in a more aggressive direction than OEM.

I took some quick pics in the parking lot... its about to rain. I'm also uploading one that shows it at stock height. I think it looks amazing lowered.

Alignment... toe was adjusted back into spec easily. Caster is good. Front camber is right on the edge of "spec"... -2.2* . Rear camber is out slightly... -2.1*. I'm going to drive it for a few weeks and take it back and see if there is anything that can be adjusted. If not, then I will watch tire wear... but even with some more aggressive neg camber, I think the tires will have a normal lifespan of 15-16k. We'll see. It tracks and rides great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Dammit, now I’m gonna have to get them too! #moneypit
I was extremely skeptical of lowering springs on my DD...even from Eibach who makes great parts and engineers them well. I put 50 miles on it today, and I'm telling you... unless I start taking corners fairly aggressively, I really don't know it has been lowered. It does not ride noticeably rougher than OEM, and ride comfort is important to me in this particular vehicle. I am not someone who does things "just for looks" if there is zero function at all. But the vehicle looks and performs better, and I like the way it feels inside driving it. It definitely sits lower and I noticed that as soon as I got into the vehicle.
 

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I drove mine to work today and several people gave complements seeing it parked outside. The best one was "Hey did you trade in that other Jeep you had for a sportier one?"
 
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I was extremely skeptical of lowering springs on my DD...even from Eibach who makes great parts and engineers them well. I put 50 miles on it today, and I'm telling you... unless I start taking corners fairly aggressively, I really don't know it has been lowered. It does not ride noticeably rougher than OEM, and ride comfort is important to me in this particular vehicle. I am not someone who does things "just for looks" if there is zero function at all. But the vehicle looks and performs better, and I like the way it feels inside driving it. It definitely sits lower and I noticed that as soon as I got into the vehicle.
Agreed. I've now put 13K miles on mine with Eibach springs and it rides great...and looks perfect with 22"s as well, filling that wheel well perfectly
 

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I had my alignment done and like most others the rear didn't come all the way in, but close enough not to affect performance or premature tire wear. I had them check alignment of the adaptive cruise control afterwards and it needed to be recalibrated. Not sure what effects are from not calibrating it, but thought I would mention it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I had my alignment done and like most others the rear didn't come all the way in, but close enough not to affect performance or premature tire wear. I had them check alignment of the adaptive cruise control afterwards and it needed to be recalibrated. Not sure what effects are from not calibrating it, but thought I would mention it.
I think as long as the toe is good, extra tire wear from a little bit more neg camber will be negligible.

I did not even think about Adaptive CC issues. I don't use it anyway, but I find that interesting that lowering the vehicle just this much would cause the calibration to be out. Glad you got that resolved.
 

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I got mine finally lowered, went to my local Jeep dealer 12:30pm drop off and got the call to come get it right at 5pm. Charged $440, included the alignment. I will say that this was worth it. In person the truck looks so much better based on its new stance. Drives like a sports vehicle should and should have come from the factory like this. I drive in sport mode almost always but handles bumps very well no complaints, just in a more firm manor. The steering seems more sensitive then before it could just be me. Handling seems much tighter also. I have center muffler cut out and it seems louder now then before and I am guessing this is due to being closer to the ground then before, regardless I like it.

I posted my allignment specs after they were done and they told me that it stayed in the right range all around. I dont know what this means at all but if anyone has a clue can you take a look at the provided spec sheet and let me know if something is very out of wack.

Next up for me will be wheels but im having a very very hard time with settling on which ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Awesome!

Yes, yours just barely came back into spec. My front camber is -2.4* (yours is -2.3*) and my rear camber is -2.2* and yours is -1.7* (above -2.0* in rear is out of spec). There is nothing wrong with the alignment. I think in OEM form front will be closer to -1.0* and rear is going to be -0.5* , so you are running a little more negative camber than factory, but still within factory specs. All good, IMHO.

Glad you like it... I'm not surprised. Wheels are a tough choice. There are a lot of good ones out there. I didn't pinch any pennies and went with Forgelines because they are super lightweight, made in USA, and extremely durable. I have a set on my ZR1 as well. But there are so many great wheels out there, and it took me 9 months to finally choose a design and finish. Paul with PK Auto Design was very helpful.
 

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After seeing the success stories in these posts I'm seriously considering lowering mine. I do live in Manitoba, Canada, so the roads I drive on are definitely not as smooth as some of those driven by our other forum members. However, the stance created by these springs looks amazing, and I definitely wouldn't mind if the TH handled a little better in corners.


Another part of my research is going into whether I should be upgrading any other components in the suspension. Others that I've seen lower their Jeeps have gone with BWoody suspension components to further enhance the handling and to help get their alignment into spec.


Have any of you guys considered upgrading your other suspension components with the springs? Can anyone here offer any insight into whether such upgrades could be a worthwhile investment on a vehicle like this, or if I'd basically be throwing my money away? Thanks.
 

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After seeing the success stories in these posts I'm seriously considering lowering mine. I do live in Manitoba, Canada, so the roads I drive on are definitely not as smooth as some of those driven by our other forum members. However, the stance created by these springs looks amazing, and I definitely wouldn't mind if the TH handled a little better in corners.


Another part of my research is going into whether I should be upgrading any other components in the suspension. Others that I've seen lower their Jeeps have gone with BWoody suspension components to further enhance the handling and to help get their alignment into spec.


Have any of you guys considered upgrading your other suspension components with the springs? Can anyone here offer any insight into whether such upgrades could be a worthwhile investment on a vehicle like this, or if I'd basically be throwing my money away? Thanks.
Im in massachusetts and our roads suck. This truck after 2 days now drives so much better then stock, firmer for sure. Takes bumps great. I wouldn't hesitate to do it. I read all the lowering threads and I cant seem to find anyone that was disappointed with doing lowering the truck.
 

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I have mine lowered on Eibachs as well, it is a bit stiffer and being in NH the frost heaves in the winter can be a bit more annoying but overall I wouldn't go back to stock. I have been getting an error message on the dash everytime I start the car that says "service adaptive suspension". Has anyone else had this pop up? It doesn't seem to affect anything, they've been on for about 10,000 miles.
 

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bwoody and lowered

I lowered mine at about 15000 miles. I really felt a difference in the rake of the car, back lower than the front. This is not bad, just different. At the same time I had installed all the bwoody bits. I am amazed at all the different aliment stories. Mine can not get castor in speck. My shop set camber to the lowest, not exactly in speck although it could be, because I don't want uneven tire wear. I now an running continental extreams. Bwoody made the ride a bit stiffer, I like that but on a real pot hole, you will notice the difference. That and a green filter is all of my mods. I don't see how anyone with no serious mods gets a 3.1 0-60 on the street, my best is 3.6, not that I try a lot, because I don't. I do love this Jeep.. Tow boats often, never know they are behind. I will blame the times on the heat in South Florida..
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I lowered mine at about 15000 miles. I really felt a difference in the rake of the car, back lower than the front. This is not bad, just different. At the same time I had installed all the bwoody bits. I am amazed at all the different aliment stories. Mine can not get castor in speck. My shop set camber to the lowest, not exactly in speck although it could be, because I don't want uneven tire wear. I now an running continental extreams. Bwoody made the ride a bit stiffer, I like that but on a real pot hole, you will notice the difference. That and a green filter is all of my mods. I don't see how anyone with no serious mods gets a 3.1 0-60 on the street, my best is 3.6, not that I try a lot, because I don't. I do love this Jeep.. Tow boats often, never know they are behind. I will blame the times on the heat in South Florida..
Yes, the heat where you are, even being near sea level is hurting power. I go from 3.4-3.5 in 85-90^F heat here in N. Texas to 3.1-3.2 when temps get in the 40s-low 50s. It is a noticeable increase in power when the temps drop.

I am not sure what you mean about the rake... its more level now, but the rear is still higher than the front on mine as well as most I've seen (unless you're towing, of course). I agree about all the different alignment happenings when using the SAME parts. Weird. My castor is good, and my F/R camber is barely out of spec (.1-.2^). It's definitely not bad, and it tracks extremely well now.
 

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I have mine lowered on Eibachs as well, it is a bit stiffer and being in NH the frost heaves in the winter can be a bit more annoying but overall I wouldn't go back to stock. I have been getting an error message on the dash everytime I start the car that says "service adaptive suspension". Has anyone else had this pop up? It doesn't seem to affect anything, they've been on for about 10,000 miles.
There is a sensor on the right rear lower A-arm that could have been damaged during install. The installation instructions say to disconnect the battery and this sensor prior to install. Make sure it is not damaged and plugged back in.


I also notice a very slight rear rake depending on how I park. It could have to do with the way the fender flares are taped on and not perfectly straight on all 4 wheel arches.
 
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