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Lil Hemi’s build

109K views 657 replies 58 participants last post by  Skltr 
#1 ·
For my Jeep I went with Livernois S1025 mail order package, FIinterchiller’s interchiller, thermal blanket and spacer plates and a Borla S type cat back exhaust.

Already has a legmaker intake, head to toe/inside n out ceramic pro and then a full under hood dress up from billet technologies in the titanium finish to go with the Rhino exterior. Currently on stock sized Continental extreme contacts with the black factory rims.

I decided to do the labor myself and take some pics along the way.

I still have the crank pulley and interchiller to install but I just finished putting the SC back in and doing all the connections up.
 

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#610 ·
And that’s why they call me lucky 🍀. Just driving down the road and punched it a bit. All of the sudden the jeep is making a weird noise, sounds exhaust related. Got pulled over and it looks like the driver’s side post cat O2 sensor busted the weld. Well, at least it was already going back into the shop on Monday to pull the fuel pumps again and sending everything off to Fore for them to test. I think the local speed shop messed up the connection where the passenger side unit connects to the fuel pump assembly.
 

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#613 ·
I am about to lose my mind with these fuel pumps!! After much, much arguing with the local speed shop we sent the pumps and passenger side units off to Fore and no leak was found but they said my pumps are degraded and should be replaced. I told them they replaced them in October. They said they talked to the actual tech and he said they were not replaced. I said see the invoice I paid for $500. Fore now says they actually were replaced in October and blamed the jeep sitting since October with E85 in the tank as the cause for the degraded pump performance. I let them know that it’s my daily driver and has been getting fueled almost daily due to the fuel pumps cutting out at 5/8 tank. They agreed to re-replace the fuel pumps but found no reason that explains my issue. I asked if they put the connector on in the same manner that the speed shop did as we have already established that they did not separate the fuel pump assembly to make the passenger side unit connection as Fore specifies. They said that their test bench does not accommodate such a request leaving me to believe that the local speed shop caused all of this by not following the procedure. Also, all of Austin has frozen over and the city has been closed for days and I’ve got lots of tree limbs to chop up. Sorry, just venting.
 

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#614 ·
Have you gone over your fuel lines, might be a kinked hose/pipe. I have also had the problem of inside rubber layer of my hoses coming loose and blocking the passage on a few of my heavy machinery hydraulic hoses. You could be over working the pumps without knowing because of such an issue leading to premature failure of the pumps. Are the pumps sitting at the right height in the tank? Maybe a measurement should be taken to see the difference between stock and fore pumps. Also check the routing of the pipes at the pumps. You might pump fuel away from the pickup point instead of pumping fuel to it.
 
#615 ·
I think the problem must lie inside of the tank since the issue is related to fuel level. The system worked flawlessly until the fuel tank was changed and now has issues at 5/8 tank and below. The issue has to be the connection at the fuel pump assembly from the passenger side unit die to the speed shop not taking the pump assembly apart in order to make the connection as Fire states must be done. I. Getting real tired of everyone making the wildest excuses in the world to explain my sudden issue instead of them just fixing it or at the very least, using some sort of model based troubleshooting. Maybe then they’d realize that there are only so many parts involved in the fuel tank so it can’t possibly be very many things causing the issue. You should hear some of the excuses they’ve given me, it’s just sad that these people don’t have a better understanding of how things work since they are the alleged experts.
 
#618 ·
Well campers, it’s been a long and painful road but I think we finally made progress this time. The pumps and secondary units checked out fine at Fore so that doesn’t leave us a whole lot left to choose from. After I put my own eyes on the pump module, we concluded that the Hydromat attached to the main pump has to be the issue. We ordered a replacement and an additional two smaller hydro mats for the other two pumps. Shop just called and said they can’t get the jeep to fault with 1/3 tank so fingers crossed that we finally solved the problem. I still need to go have that O2 sensor welded back onto the car and then off for inspection and registration. With any luck I’ll be legally on the road again by Saturday 🤞🏼
 
#620 ·
Yeah, the right hydramat for the application is important for sure. Good to hear positive progress. I bet you miss driving it by now.
 
#621 ·
Well we replaced the hydromat that was there with identical and added two others. Somehow the hydromat that was one there failed and thus the last six months of nightmares. Nobody saw this as a failure point but we had already replaced and tested everything else so it had to be the hydromat.
Gas Rectangle Plastic wrap Plastic Aluminium
 
#624 ·
Well, we appear to have solved the left turn problem since changing the hydromat. Unfortunately we have a new symptom. Apparently, once the jeep warms up the fuel pumps stop working and the jeep has to be left for hours to cool down before it’ll start again. Fore (fuel system manufacturer) has been super great about eve from the start and they say this new symptom is caused by an electrical connection. So it looks like Lil Hemi will be going back to the shop on Thursday.
 
#627 ·
I forgot to update this. The local shop found a bad connection that’s only used during startup. It was near the pump controller and nowhere near the tank. They repaired for a reasonable cost but the fuel gauge no longer reads full when the tank is full. It will only read just above 3/4. I took it back to them and they found faulty voltage readings coming from the drivers side unit but only above 3/4 tank. So I guess I need a new drivers side float unit ~$700 and drop the tank again, another $700. I should’ve just left the patch on the damn tank!
 
#630 ·
Lil Hemi Finally got washed today and I noticed the blower belt was off a rib and mostly black instead of green. I always keep a spare laying around so I tossed it on along with a Gates serpentine belt. I had a cylinder 8 misfire DTC after getting onto a 911 turbo S that I wasn’t able to clear, I had to reload the tube in order to clear it and it hasn’t come back. We were at highway speed when he hit the gas and got two cars on me before I reacted but I was reeling him in until he let off around 130. I bet he was surprised. Lol
 

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#634 ·
I was unable to clear the DTC but I was able to clear it by reloading the tune. I also noticed that my IC fluid was low. I’m thinking the fluid was so low, that when I was on a steep hill, it may have triggered this DTC. I filled up the reservoir and will see if it happens again. I really don’t want to have to replace the pump with everything else I have going on.
 
#635 ·
Strange, you should have gotten a warning in the dash for low IC coolant. I know for sure thats a thing because I have had appear on the dash. You could check/change the fuse and relay for the pump. The fuse could be making poor contact, relay could have carbon buildup on the contact points. I have heard alfa romeos having similar issues and a simple relay swap fixed the issue.
 
#636 ·
Well, the coolant level is normally low due to the interchiller. My theory is that the IC coolant temps get so low that when the hot engine shuts off, it heats up the air in the reservoir and pushes out the coolant through the overflow, causing the near low level scenario over time. I’m hoping that it sucked in a bit of air and that caused the pump to overcurrent trying to pump the air momentarily. I filled up the reservoir and got the code reset and we shall see if it comes back. Fingers crossed.
 
#638 ·
Trying to deal with another issue that’s been going on forever. If I don’t let the jeep run for at least 5 minutes (if cold) and try to drive it, the jeep will surge like crazy as I’m backing out of the garage or you have to shift it into neutral/park to keep it form dying. I’ve seen multiple posts with similar issues and the fox has been all the way from a new battery to cleaning the TB. I finally got motivated enough to pull the TB and it definitely had some gunk in it. I hit it up with some brake cleaner and wiped it clean. Will see if it makes any difference.
 
#640 ·
So, cleaning the TB had such good results it got me thinking about the bypass valve. I made a separate post about it but I found the inside of the blower lid was pretty dirty. The smaller TB that acts as the bypass valve looked fairly clean. It I went ahead a wiped it out as well as sprayed the inside of the lid with carb cleaner and gave it a good cleaning. I also noted some wear on the rotor blades so I’m not sure how big of a problem that is.
 

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