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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Took a little time off from the truck and just getting back to it now.
The bulk of my codes appear to be normal for a newly unlocked PCM and just need to be cleared.
Also I do need to do a TPS relearn through HP tuners.
This should solve almost all the codes.

Only one that still has me worried is the P0335 for crankshaft position sensor. Did buy a new sensor but going to clear all the codes out first and see how that goes before replacing the sensor. Very improbable the sensor went back with a only 2000 miles on a new hawk.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Small update.

Well. Spring is upon us finally.
Pesky crank sensor problem is resolved.

Over winter didn't do many additional mods.
Installed a Mightmouse catchcan about a month ago though to replace my JLT unit.
Very nice setup.
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For fun I also put in a adjustable idler. Not that I'll be needing it on pump gas but planning for the future more than anything.

Finally I got a screaming deal from another forum member on a brand new Forced Induction interchiller stg 2 kit with spacers and blanket.
Going to take my time on the interchiller installation as I hear it is a little challenging and preferable to have a second set of hands.
Anyone have any tips and tricks?
 

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Small update.

Well. Spring is upon us finally.
Pesky crank sensor problem is resolved.

Over winter didn't do many additional mods.
Installed a Mightmouse catchcan about a month ago though to replace my JLT unit.
Very nice setup.
View attachment 10588

For fun I also put in a adjustable idler. Not that I'll be needing it on pump gas but planning for the future more than anything.

Finally I got a screaming deal from another forum member on a brand new Forced Induction interchiller stg 2 kit with spacers and blanket.
Going to take my time on the interchiller installation as I hear it is a little challenging and preferable to have a second set of hands.
Anyone have any tips and tricks?
Pay someone. And make sure they wire the solenoid switch to an acc wire and not +12v
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Pay someone. And make sure they wire the solenoid switch to an acc wire and not +12v
Been hearing that from a few people as well lol. They say can be very challenging if you haven't done it before.
Going to give it a go with the help of a friend that did it on his trackhawk not long ago.
AC ship is 3 blocks from my house so will be easily to refill right after.

Thanks for the heads-up on the solenoid switch. Much appreciated.
 

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Been hearing that from a few people as well lol. They say can be very challenging if you haven't done it before.
Going to give it a go with the help of a friend that did it on his trackhawk not long ago.
AC ship is 3 blocks from my house so will be easily to refill right after.

Thanks for the heads-up on the solenoid switch. Much appreciated.
I was going to attempt it myself when I did the first round of mods but ran out of time so I didn’t try and then when the motor blew I figured might as well have the shop do all the work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
I was going to attempt it myself when I did the first round of mods but ran out of time so I didn’t try and then when the motor blew I figured might as well have the shop do all the work.
A friend told me took him 20hrs to do it.
The person who will be helping me is more mechanically inclined/experienced and told me 8-10hrs it took him.
Not going to be easy but do have very good customer support from FI incase I need it.
🤞
 

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A friend told me took him 20hrs to do it.
The person who will be helping me is more mechanically inclined/experienced and told me 8-10hrs it took him.
Not going to be easy but do have very good customer support from FI incase I need it.
🤞
I think I got billed 10 hours for it. Yeah, that Australian guy is top notch when it comes to answering questions. Good luck and take some pictures along the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
So when I started up the trackhawk for the spring a few weeks ago noticed a small knocking. Thought it was a lifter at first.
Looks to be hydrolock from when I changed out the injectors.

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Lucky only the rod needs to he changed and should be able to put it back together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Truck is running like new again.
Managed to just change the rod as the piston and bore was ok. Very lucky.
Can focus more on tuning now.

Doing some logging with HP tuners tonight and for some reason no matter what I do seem to be missing readings on a few channels.

Did 4 logs today with the truck running but no luck with data on those channels.

Anyone have any tips?

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No
Truck is running like new again.
Managed to just change the rod as the piston and bore was ok. Very lucky.
Can focus more on tuning now.

Doing some logging with HP tuners tonight and for some reason no matter what I do seem to be missing readings on a few channels.

Did 4 logs today with the truck running but no luck with data on those channels.

Anyone have any tips?

View attachment 10656
No clue. I can send the config my tuner uses, not sure if it’s different from what you are logging.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
What was the cause of the washed out cylinder? Was the injector stuck open?
100% my fault. Passenger rear injector. You know, the biggest pain in the ass one to reach.
Anyways, enough fuel dripped into that cylinder from the rail when I was changing injectors to cause the hydrolock. Sat in there for a few days. Doesn't take much to be honest.
By the time I got to changing that rear injector the towel I was also using to absorb the fuel rail fuel leaking out I'm guessing was pretty drenched so what couldn't be absorbed dripped into the cylinder.
Live and learn to be more careful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 · (Edited)
Had some time today and installed the Per4mance Dirs rear differential brace.
Pretty straight forward installation.
Very nice piece for sure.
Longest part was trimming the plastic under tray at the end lol

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