[bloodyhellhawk]

changed the oil at 4000 miles(was in the higher portion of the hashmark), I just checked the oil level at 7000 miles and it was completely below the hashmark.

This indicates the car has consumed a good amount of oil, appx 1 quart Im guessing in the 3000 miles.

The vehicle is stock, has a catch can. catch can gets an ounce or slightly more every 1000 miles.

Do you guys think this is normal? For those who have been monitoring their oil levels please share your experience. thank you.

 

[Craig]

From new to about 15K I was putting in a quart about 1K before the oil change as it hit the bottom of the hash marks. After 15K the usage seems to have dropped off significantly and am down a hashmark or two only at the oil change, certainly not enough to require any addition.

 

[Car-Guy]

When mine was new I was concerned with oil consumption. It was "noticeable" for the first few oil changes, but that seems to have completely stopped. If it's using any oil now, "it ain't much". Almost at 30k now.

Now if I could get it to quit consuming tires so fast, that would be great. I really don't have a problem paying 2k for a set but it's a real PIA to get new tires every ~6 months.

 

[TNCHARGER]

I have almost 9,000 miles on mine and have changed the oil twice. Both times it was right on the full mark. Almost 3,000 miles since last change and still on the full mark.

 

[JMS935]

I wish I had asked the dealership about this, as I recently got my first oil change at about 3400 miles. I’d think they’d tell me if it were low, but who knows. I definitely plan on getting my money’s worth out of the free wave program oil changes.

 

[bloodyhellhawk]

it took a whole quart. I informed my service writer, and Im gunna let the dealership do the next change and add some uv dye in. if they can find a leak, fix it, great.

If not, they will give it a leak down test. If it fails, thats when this starts to suck.

 

[HellHawked]

I wish I had asked the dealership about this, as I recently got my first oil change at about 3400 miles. I’d think they’d tell me if it were low, but who knows. I definitely plan on getting my money’s worth out of the free wave program oil changes.

They don’t check your level before draining it. They put it on a lift, drain, change the filter, fill and send out the door. They make money by volume. Not caring for your car (unfortunately).

 

[HellHawked]

it took a whole quart. I informed my service writer, and Im gunna let the dealership do the next change and add some uv dye in. if they can find a leak, fix it, great.

If not, they will give it a leak down test. If it fails, thats when this starts to suck.

I’m not sure what FCAs policy is but oil consumption for warranty is rediculous. Mitsubishi’s policy on turbos when I was a tech was 1 quart in 500 miles! If you were burning a quart every 1000 miles, you better go buy some oil...

 

[Craig]

I'm pretty sure FCA will say a quart in 3K miles on a new motor is not an issue and will do squat about it. Here's an older service bulletin, not sure if they've updated it since 2016 but it says 1 quart per 2K miles is acceptable, and may be higher on vehicles driven in an "aggressive manner"

https://chrysler.oemdtc.com/682/engine-oil-consumption-guideline-2012-2016-fca-us

If you're leaking a quart, then uv shouldn't be needed, the motor will be "wet and dirty" somewhere from that quantity of oil going overboard...

 

[Lil Hemi]

I saw/thought similarly when I noticed how much oil was missing after only a few thousand miles but it continues to be less and less as it gets more miles on it. At nearly 16k now and just about to change the oil for the third time and it’s still full, less than an ounce in the catch can.

I lost about a quart in the first 6k, 1/2-1/4 quart on the second 6k and holding at full now. I did (for the most part) follow the break in procedure, not saying it makes a difference, just noting it. Also, i did find the oil filter loose n covered in oil the first time I checked the oil and found it a quart low.

 

[ROCKETW19]

I saw/thought similarly when I noticed how much oil was missing after only a few thousand miles but it continues to be less and less as it gets more miles on it. At nearly 16k now and just about to change the oil for the third time and it’s still full, less than an ounce in the catch can.

I lost about a quart in the first 6k, 1/2-1/4 quart on the second 6k and holding at full now. I did (for the most part) follow the break in procedure, not saying it makes a difference, just noting it. Also, i did find the oil filter loose n covered in oil the first time I checked the oil and found it a quart low.

I keep seeing "break in" what exactly is that and where do you see that from? is there instructions in the hand book or something?
I already commented how I break it in thats WOT but I am still curious what they say and why I would like to read it please.

 

[JMS935]

I keep seeing "break in" what exactly is that and where do you see that from? is there instructions in the hand book or something?
I already commented how I break it in thats WOT but I am still curious what they say and why I would like to read it please.

My break in period was to try to break it with as much WOT as the roads and traffic would allow within the first 500 miles. It didn’t break, though, so maybe I was doing something wrong. :surprise:

 

[Lil Hemi]

Search for a thread titled break in protocol

 

[ROCKETW19]

Search for a thread titled break in protocol

thats interesting no one said but I assume that came out of a hand book or something? I have bought aftermarket Brembo GTs and Willwoods but say the exact opposite on brakes they say drive fast and slamm your brakes on. the thread I read was opposite lol
same with breaking in a brand new built motor you want to run it hard (short periods) to set the rings if not the lil scrapers wear off before doing their job (lack of proper words) the thread says to drive slow. thats confusing as can be.
very **** weird but thanks Lil Hemi.

 

[Lil Hemi]

I’m pretty sure I found the same in a manual but couldn’t locate it. As far as brake pads, I’m on powerstop pads (no dust) and they have a break in procedure too. Idk, I just figured, since they make it, they should know. Each to their own though, you bought it, do whatever you want to it. That’s my philosophy at least.

 

[ROCKETW19]

I’m pretty sure I found the same in a manual but couldn’t locate it. As far as brake pads, I’m on powerstop pads (no dust) and they have a break in procedure too. Idk, I just figured, since they make it, they should know. Each to their own though, you bought it, do whatever you want to it. That’s my philosophy at least.

yes I agree. thats why I wanted to see it in the actual Mopar book. I also agree its yours do what ever you want
what was the brake in for the power stop pads?

 

[Lil Hemi]

Just went with the manufacturers recommendations. It’s just a series of stops from various speeds, the tricky part is not coming to a full stop during the process.

 

[RhinoTrackhawk]

My TH burnt around a quart every 3k mi. Only 7k miles, and I don’t mind topping it off - as long as it’s not on the floor of my garage!

 

[Mopar_groot]

They don’t check your level before draining it. They put it on a lift, drain, change the filter, fill and send out the door. They make money by volume. Not caring for your car (unfortunately).

For the amount you pay, you'd think you would get a proper service. The cars air filter looks like it's never been changed, only had it for a few months, oil filter same never changed, it's fucked. **** dealers and their lies.