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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I'm going to start a great debate. lol
0w-40 or 5w-40? I've run both in my 6.4 without issue, anyone run 5w-40 in their hawk?
 

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Why would you run a different lubricant than what is specified for the platform unless you’ve modified the platform? I guess this discussion is on the same level as should you follow the break in procedures? It’s your vehicle, so do what you want with it but I don’t understand why one wouldn’t just take the advice of the people who made the thing.

I work in semiconductor manufacturing industry and if the specification calls for a certain type of lubricant then that’s exactly what we use. We deal in angstroms so the margin for error is small and you don’t get a second chance most of the time. To even get a different manufacturer of the same specifications approved for production takes an act of god.

I can understand that back in the day, people did different things based on lots of different variables but in this day of modern engineering and manufacturing, I’d recommend listening to the manufacturer.
 

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As long as it meets Chrysler spec MS-12633 you should be good to go. I ran Mobil One 0-40 in my first TH for a while until I read it didn't meet the MS-12633 spec so I switched to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0-40. Might as well run what they recommend "just in case".

I used Mobil One in all my Vettes since that's what they recommended. FCA recommends oil that meets their MS-12633 spec. Maybe it's a marketing thing, (I don't know) and it cost a bit more but so what. It seems to be really good motor oil...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I guess it may be part of the old school thinking that some oil weight is better than no oil weight. I have no issues running either. I've run both in my 6.4s with no issues. The 6.2 doesn't have MDS so no concern for viscosity causing that to malfunction.
As for the break-in procedure comment, I don't think I could ever follow it to the letter, but I usually take it easy on things for the first few hundred miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The W in 0W-40 doesn’t stand for weight, it stands for winter, meaning cold.
Correct, I was typing fast, but meant some weight for when it's cold. There isn't much flow difference between 0w and 5w, but the 5 has some more 'weight' to it.
 

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I'm really surprised that the boosted engine of the TH uses such thin oil on startup. O is very thin cold start and we all know this engine is built loose for boost. May be the reason a lot of us see puffs of smoke on startup. If living in a moderate climate, I would think 5w40 or even 10w40 would be a better choice, but then again, this engine was engineered for what oil they call for. It just boggles my mind why so thin...…...Could be due to tight bearing tolerances, yet the rings are spec'd loose for boost and thus the reason for puffs of smoke on startup.
 
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I always use the weight the manufacturer recommends. It could be reason to void warranty if something happen. FCA will be able to detect what oil was used. On another note some of you that have been around the forums since 2006 might remember Chrysler's fix for the "hemi tick" in the 6.1 SRT engines. Chrysler said to use 15W40 (I think that is the right oil weight) to resolve the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I always use the weight the manufacturer recommends. It could be reason to void warranty if something happen. FCA will be able to detect what oil was used.
I wonder if this same logic can be applied to if the owner followed the proper break-in procedure.
 

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I wonder if this same logic can be applied to if the owner followed the proper break-in procedure.
Almost no one follows the break in procedure and I have never heard of a warranty being voided over it. Break in is actually for the trans and rear end not the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Almost no one follows the break in procedure and I have never heard of a warranty being voided over it. Break in is actually for the trans and rear end not the engine.
Agreed, the point was that I doubt anyone would look to see if you were using 5w-40 or 0w-40 when determining if your warranty was going to be voided.
 

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Unless the dealer sends an oil sample out for analysis (and even then, doubtful to determine the exact weight) there's virtually no way to finger-test it and tell if it's 0 or 5 weight...especially when it's not freezing cold. Remember the W means winter...equals cold.
 

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Unless the dealer sends an oil sample out for analysis (and even then, doubtful to determine the exact weight) there's virtually no way to finger-test it and tell if it's 0 or 5 weight...especially when it's not freezing cold. Remember the W means winter...equals cold.
I agree. I doubt a dealer would bother with checking oil weight. The dealer wont waste the money as they dont have final say in a warranty issue. The problem is if something happens to cause the engine to be replaced under warranty the dealer sends the engine back to FCA. FCA will check oil among other things.
 

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Agreed, the point was that I doubt anyone would look to see if you were using 5w-40 or 0w-40 when determining if your warranty was going to be voided.


Depends on the failure. If it’s oiling related failure and they’re are looking for a way to back out of the repair, oil change records will be the first thing they ask for, which typically has the type/weight of oil used.


Oem recommendations for me, as there really isn’t a reason not use it , imo.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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