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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Noise has been driving me crazy, because it is not all the time. Sounds like a playing card flapping in bicycle spokes, sometime very noticeable sometimes very faint, it's not a loud sound. About the time I want to take to dealer it may completely vanish for days. Sometimes I think it sounds like a gear ratcheting ever so lightly. Could it have anything to do with the clutches in transfer case?? Electric motor mounted to transfer case, I presume this is how different % of power are distributed from front & rear. All of this happens from 10mph to 35mph after that can't hear maybe road noise drowns it out. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hard to say engine noise drowns it out if you give it gas, notice the most driving in neighborhood, but when you slow down below 10 mph like stopping at stop sign it goes away.
 

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Sounds like someone pranked you and put a tie wrap around your driveshaft. LOL
 
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I only hear it when I’m coasting and under very light throttle input. Mine speeds up and slows down with the drivetrain as well. When you are going fast, it can still be there but it just sounds like ambient car noise u til you slow down enough to hear the individual “ticks”.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I agree
 

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I have the exact same noise. It comes and goes for no reason. I know the dealership will never figure it out, so I'm hoping one of you does and share the fix!
 

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Never heard it on any of mine (4 of them) but I have heard a very similar noise on one of my pickups. It would start at about 15 to 20 mph and get louder until 40 to 45 and then it would go away. Did it about 70 to 80% of the time... Drove me nuts for a few weeks. It sounded like it was coming from the middle and underside of the trunk just like the flapping of a baseball card in the spokes of a bike wheel except maybe not that loud.

I put it on a lift and put it in drive and carefully ran it up to about 3000 rpms and couldn't hear the noise. WTF? Then I suspected something was flapping in the wind but I couldn't find anything loose, stuck or hanging under the truck. A few days later I was washing the truck and found a rubber seal that was loose on the roof.:rolleyes: Snapped it back down and the problem was solved....

So I'd check the underside for any loose or broken panels/parts, etc. Check the top too since sounds can play tricks on you, like they did me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yea I've had my vehicle on the lift several times at my son house, doesn't make any noises while on lift, kind of a torque thing, nothing loose top or bottom. Hope it stays the same, getting ready to go 2500 mile trip. Going to take to dealer when I get back, the service manager wants to go for a ride so at least I can get him to hear it so I don't get the Tech saying Could Not Duplicate and waste everybody's time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
After my trip has never done it again. Read something about Electronic Stability Control (a clicking noise) does some kind of calculation every time you start your vehicle for a specific number of times, just glad the noise is gone was driving me crazy
 

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Just had this same thing come up. We ran it on the lift and the noise is definitely coming from the drive shaft linkage (or trans or transfer case), but it's right at the coupling. Did not grab a video of it, but standing under it while running. it at 10-12 mph you can hear it. I described it exactly the same a playing card in the spoke an exact TIK-TOK cadence. 33,000 miles on it and a full 7 year warranty but trying to figure out what the heck it is. Local shop found it and now trying to determine what the issue is and if it could be under warranty. THEN we have to explain all the findings to the dealer. Also found this thread:

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Just had this same thing come up. We ran it on the lift and the noise is definitely coming from the drive shaft linkage (or trans or transfer case), but it's right at the coupling. Did not grab a video of it, but standing under it while running. it at 10-12 mph you can hear it. I described it exactly the same a playing card in the spoke an exact TIK-TOK cadence. 33,000 miles on it and a full 7 year warranty but trying to figure out what the heck it is. Local shop found it and now trying to determine what the issue is and if it could be under warranty. THEN we have to explain all the findings to the dealer. Also found this thread:

Just happened to see a video the other day about transfer cases and it made total sense. There is a motor that adjusts the clutches for all the modes of traction. It is a well know problem that no one will confirm at dealerships, because I've asked. Mine sounded like a ratchet clicking, its trying to find the correct amount of tension on clutches, when it totally fails you will get Service 4WD light. Transfer case is none serviceable, unless you send it to Paramount for rebuild. Mine comes and goes very slight noise or none at all, mostly driving in neighborhood. There is a module that keeps track of adjustment to tell when clutches are worn out. If transfer case is replaced then it has to be re calibrated. If you do a lot of spirited driving said to always have in Track mode. I've had my heat shields off and drive shaft is fine, I never was able to hear the clicking sound when I had it on lift. The worst thing that may cause this is having tires that don't match the same diameter. If have one bad tire you have to replace all 4. Post your findings after trip to dealership cause it took me a long time to find the answer.
 
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Just happened to see a video the other day about transfer cases and it made total sense. There is a motor that adjusts the clutches for all the modes of traction. It is a well know problem that no one will confirm at dealerships, because I've asked. Mine sounded like a ratchet clicking, its trying to find the correct amount of tension on clutches, when it totally fails you will get Service 4WD light. Transfer case is none serviceable, unless you send it to Paramount for rebuild. Mine comes and goes very slight noise or none at all, mostly driving in neighborhood. There is a module that keeps track of adjustment to tell when clutches are worn out. If transfer case is replaced then it has to be re calibrated. If you do a lot of spirited driving said to always have in Track mode. I've had my heat shields off and drive shaft is fine, I never was able to hear the clicking sound when I had it on lift. The worst thing that may cause this is having tires that don't match the same diameter. If have one bad tire you have to replace all 4. Post your findings after trip to dealership cause it took me a long time to find the answer.
I guess the real question is if it's the transfer case with the full Mopar 7-year maximum care protection is that level of work going to be covered. My dealer is a good group and I've emailed the including this thread but it will all come down to them digging into the problem and how long is that going to take plus repair etc. We did replace a tire but was only on for a week then did all 4 so that should not be it. This really has me concerned on the level of repair and if the maximum care will cover it.

Same here most noticeable under 20 mph in town driving, but my concern is always "more damage" being done in the meantime. I mean we don't beat on it, never race it, but it's a TH so I drive it like I feel I should for fun. 90% of the time it's in auto mode with eco, when I drive I do use sport and track here and there but it's less than 10% of the total miles on it..
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
When last time you changed fluid in transfer case, I just did mine a few days ago at 24K+ to see if it makes a difference, haven't heard anything but it's one of noises that comes and goes. Going to send a sample of fluid to checked out.
 

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When last time you changed fluid in transfer case, I just did mine a few days ago at 24K+ to see if it makes a difference, haven't heard anything but it's one of noises that comes and goes. Going to send a sample of fluid to checked out.
at 33k miles I don't think that has been done yet but that's an interesting thought...30k service says inspect it but TBH not sure if it got the full 30k service
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
at 33k miles I don't think that has been done yet but that's an interesting thought...30k service says inspect it but TBH not sure if it got the full 30k service
Cheap insurance only take 1.5 qts?? Changed rear fluid in Chrysler 300 SRT with 24K was nasty looking. I also changed my front and rear diff at the same time, front was clean looking, rear was not as bad but you never know. Dealer probably charges a fortune to do, have to add limited slip additive, saw something the other day they now make special Mopar fluid for rear end $55 a quart, wow.
 
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Spoke to the owner of the dealership I use (he's a buddy's friend) but he agreed with the Protection plan most anything (drive shaft etc) should be covered but we are going to work out a plan. I would agree sytart with fluids and inspection let them drive it for a week, then maybe inspect shaft/coupling, and if it still persists you are left with the trans case.....thing is I really just need to let them have it for a few weeks to try all that. I think the maximum care also includes loaner, but will work out the details. Luckily this dealership is a place a TRUST and I have the owner on speed dial.
 
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