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Discussion Starter #1
I believe the consensus is the transfer case is the weak link in the TrackHawk drivetrain. With that, who out there in the aftermarket world is R&Ding a bulletproof transfer case so we can continue to push the performance envelope?
 

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I believe by useing sport and race modes you increase the percentage of power to the rear wheels which does reduce the torque and power to from the transfer case which should help prolong the life of the unit. However as we add power enhancers everything has its limits.
 

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You have a good number of guys toasting the front diffs as well, stock and modded.

I would say both are the weak links so far.
Paramount has a transfer case for wk2 srt8’s I believe. That said, I think it’s $4k and unknown if it’s an upgrade from the trackhawk center transfer case.



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Discussion Starter #4
You have a good number of guys toasting the front diffs as well, stock and modded.

I would say both are the weak links so far.
Paramount has a transfer case for wk2 srt8’s I believe. That said, I think it’s $4k and unknown if it’s an upgrade from the trackhawk center transfer case.



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Right! Diffs too. Maybe Paramount will bullet proof the TH components.

I drive mine in custom with AWD and transmission in sport all the time. If I’m ever dead hook launching I put those systems in Track mode as a safety precaution.

If I apply non-scientific math to it:
700HP @ 50/50 = 350 to the front
700HP @ 60/40 = 280 to the front
700HP @ 65/35 = 245 to the front
700HP @ 70/30 = 210 to the front

1000HP @ 50/50 = 500 to the front
1000HP @ 60/40 = 400 to the front
1000HP @ 65/35 = 350 to the front
1000HP @ 70/30 = 300 to the front

If is that simple you are stuck in AWD Track mode if you get 1000 crank HP to be semi-safe.
 

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Right! Diffs too. Maybe Paramount will bullet proof the TH components.

I drive mine in custom with AWD and transmission in sport all the time. If I’m ever dead hook launching I put those systems in Track mode as a safety precaution.



If is that simple you are stuck in AWD Track mode if you get 1000 crank HP to be semi-safe.
That's what I do... and I'm stock. Any racing from a dig, and trans goes to Track. Hopefully this practice plays out for most of us with good reliability in the long run. I _so_ want to mod this thing (just mild mods... 850hp), but really don't want the hassle of wondering when/if I'm going to nuke something.
 

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Cryogenics is a good way to toughen up the transfer case and differentials, make it bulletproof with Cryogenics, if any forum members have theirs cases or diffs out or want to take them out and send them to me I’ll treat them, it’s amazing what the Cryogenics process does to metal.
 

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From what I’m hearing, but not confirmed, it’s the clutches in the case that are being fryed, nothing metal is breaking


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Cryogenics is a good way to toughen up the transfer case and differentials, make it bulletproof with Cryogenics, if any forum members have theirs cases or diffs out or want to take them out and send them to me I’ll treat them, it’s amazing what the Cryogenics process does to metal.
Hmmm... Just had to read up on this a little more.

cryogenic-treatment-of-gears/

A little older article

-cryogenic-gear-treatment/
 

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dang, for once I wish I lived in Florida LOL thats a cool offer Mr. X hopefully someone takes you up on that, have you done your own?

Ive been hearing more and more about cryo in automotives. makes sense, as there are stresses introduced after the initial cast.
I haven’t done mine yet as I’m still stock. I am going to do my supercharger now as one of the advantages of cryoing metal is that it makes metal dissipate heat better so I’m hopping to see lower IAT’s, when I had my motorcycle shop I Cryoed my stock Hayabusa motor I dynoed it on my Factory Pro Dyno stock at 157hp and after Cryo it did 165hp. I have a friend that runs in the Outlaw 632 class and we Cryo a lot of his engine parts and transmission and he gets more seasons out of the engine and tranni before overhauls, his friends/competition are sending me parts now.
 

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From what I’m hearing, but not confirmed, it’s the clutches in the case that are being fryed, nothing metal is breaking
I Cryo the clutch packs, metal and fiber and get a lot better wear out of them and when the T-case or tranny gets overhaulied they report back no heat discoloration on the metal friction plates which is awesome, I Cryoed my Demon 2 pice rotors and new stock pads, waiting on the Demon pads, and I can report less brake dust... YEAH!!! sorry off topic, Cryogenics will definitely help bulletproof high HP builds, engine, T-case, tranny, you name it, anything that’s not plastic will benefit from cryogenic treatment.
 

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How do you cyro treat clutch friction material?
Same cryo process applies to the fiber clutch plates. Fiber or composite parts can be cryoed the same as metal parts, fiberglass and composite materials withstand temperatures far greater than the +300* that is applied for the heat tempering process as well as withstand extremely low temps and do not get brittle like rubber or plastic when subjected to -300* cryo process. The real tempering or realigning of the molecules, be it fiber or metal, were we get the part to be stronger and more heat resistant, comes from the -300* that is applied for 24 hrs.
 

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Same cryo process applies to the fiber clutch plates. Fiber or composite parts can be cryoed the same as metal parts, fiberglass and composite materials withstand temperatures far greater than the +300* that is applied for the heat tempering process as well as withstand extremely low temps and do not get brittle like rubber or plastic when subjected to -300* cryo process. The real tempering or realigning of the molecules, be it fiber or metal, were we get the part to be stronger and more heat resistant, comes from the -300* that is applied for 24 hrs.
Awesome stuff!
 

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Same cryo process applies to the fiber clutch plates. Fiber or composite parts can be cryoed the same as metal parts, fiberglass and composite materials withstand temperatures far greater than the +300* that is applied for the heat tempering process as well as withstand extremely low temps and do not get brittle like rubber or plastic when subjected to -300* cryo process. The real tempering or realigning of the molecules, be it fiber or metal, were we get the part to be stronger and more heat resistant, comes from the -300* that is applied for 24 hrs.


You kind of lost me. Cyro treating aligns the grain structure of metal, not fiber or organic material. Deep freezing of many organic materials actually does quite the opposite, fractures the grain material. Is there a specific non metal friction material that holds up to cyro treating? That would be great.

Or are you talking cyro treating a metal clutch disc and then sending it out to have the friction material applied?


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