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You guys see this yet??
https://www.motorauthority.com/news...e-trackhawk-can-be-switched-to-rwd-in-minutes
https://www.motorauthority.com/news...e-trackhawk-can-be-switched-to-rwd-in-minutes
Trackhawk Burnout
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362 Posts
I had read something about that a while back but it's the first time I've seen anyone actually do it. It should be pretty easy to rig up a switch to bypass (open) the fuse from the drivers seat if you wanted the option to do this occasionally.
No doubt it would hurt the 0-60 and 1/4 mile times with the loss of 4 wheel traction off the line, but I wonder how it would affect high speed passing ability and top speeds. That's something I might be interested in myself.
No doubt it would hurt the 0-60 and 1/4 mile times with the loss of 4 wheel traction off the line, but I wonder how it would affect high speed passing ability and top speeds. That's something I might be interested in myself.
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168 Posts
I’m more curious how safe for the transfer case this is. Is the clutch fully disengaged when you pull the fuse or are you just shortening the life of your drivetrain?
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Thinking about this a bit more, I wonder if I did rig up a bypass switch so I could flip it after the initial launch (say about 2 secs) if it would actually improve my 1/4 mile ET's. On the other hand, who knows what might happen switching from AWD to rear wheel drive in the middle of a WOT run.
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362 Posts
That thought occurred to me too. Any Trackhawk engineers monitoring this forum with an answer?
No Jeep engineer here, but I have read on several occasions by _tuners_ who have done this to dyno their THs in 2WD that only pulling the fuse does not _completely, 100%_ disengage the transfer case. And therefore, they have seen hurt/damaged TCs as a result. Now... disclaimer: I don't know these tuners personally, haven't been to their shop(s), etc.
But that's enough for me to not mess with it.
It's also a reason I _race_ my truck in TRACK mode for the trans at least because I want 70% power going to the rear under hard, from-a-dig acceleration runs. Especially for guys who are adding power to their THs, even the factory beefed-up TC has its limits. I'd rather not find them in stock or modded form.
YMMV
But that's enough for me to not mess with it.
It's also a reason I _race_ my truck in TRACK mode for the trans at least because I want 70% power going to the rear under hard, from-a-dig acceleration runs. Especially for guys who are adding power to their THs, even the factory beefed-up TC has its limits. I'd rather not find them in stock or modded form.
YMMV
Seems pretty stupid to me. I woulda never bought this thing if it weren’t AWD, that’s obviously the leg up we have on every other hellcat. To be considering making this 2 wheel drive and risking damaging it is just nuts. Imagine if every hellcat owner could just pull a fuse and have AWD, they’d all do it! The grass is always screener on the other side...we’re the other side! Wtf are you guys thinking about?!? That should be rhetorical.
I’ll be leaving my fuses alone.
I’ll be leaving my fuses alone.
I can see only 2 reasons to go 2WD... 1) the dyno used for testing/tuning is a 2WD setup. In this case, physically disconnecting the drive to the front transfer case is warranted. 2) You build an 8-second monster, and are running full slicks in the rear, and a suspension setup to take advantage of and promote weight transfer to the rear tires... done primarily because at this power level, the transfer case cannot handle the power (maybe it can... I'm only surmising). I believe Hennessey has done this in one of their test Trackhawks that is running in the low-9s/faster.
But for 99.99% of owners and drivers, I'm with you... there is really no reason to try this.
But for 99.99% of owners and drivers, I'm with you... there is really no reason to try this.
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Personally I wouldn't mess with it until I learned a lot more and/or heard from someone that's qualified at Jeep to tell me what is really happening if the fuse is bypassed, (or if it blows by itself) then I could make an informed decision. I can afford to take the gamble (hell it's only money) but I still would want to know more before rolling the dice.
I recall on one of my Vettes there was an after market "fuse bypass" to allow the driver to press a button on a FOB and open a certain fuse that would keep the exhaust baffles open all the time for much better sound. The baffles were designed to open automatically at higher RPM's for greater exhaust flow but were closed at lower RPM's. I bought one and it worked great. (I think it was called "Mild to Wild) Same idea could be used here but for a total different purpose.
I recall on one of my Vettes there was an after market "fuse bypass" to allow the driver to press a button on a FOB and open a certain fuse that would keep the exhaust baffles open all the time for much better sound. The baffles were designed to open automatically at higher RPM's for greater exhaust flow but were closed at lower RPM's. I bought one and it worked great. (I think it was called "Mild to Wild) Same idea could be used here but for a total different purpose.
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