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I am curious if any of you who have had their engines tuned to produce upwards of 900 horsepower (or more) had their oil tested for fuel contamination or excessive wear?
I recently had one of my tuned vehicles in for an engine code that indicated a possible stretched timing chain at 88K ( normally about $2,500- $3,000). I am diligent as to regular servicing of the vehicle and generally filled it with Amsoil, with one or two Mobil one changes over the vehicle’s life.
Thinking that a stretched timing chain can be a result of greatly increased boost pressure, I went through the process of an inspection at a trusted garage. The valve train was squeaky clean and the chain was stretched somewhat, but, it was also evident that the overhead cam lobes were severely worn, as well as evidence of possible accelerated valve guide wear ( it was not burning oil between changes).
I contacted Amsoil and spoke to the representative who sent me an oil analysis kit which I sent to a lab. The lab test indicated that the oil was diluted with fuel.
Btw, my vehicle ran just fine both before and after the engine inspection and really had the techs scratching their heads ( they originally thought the sensors were faulty).

My concern is that the tuning maps may be programmed to deliver a healthy dose of fuel to maintain an additional margin of safety during boost conditions.

My question is specifically directed to the owners on the forum who have had heavy mods and corresponding tunes done to their engines. I would strongly suggest that they purchase oil analysis kits ( around $30) to check for fuel contamination or excessive metal in their used motor oil to avoid greatly accelerated engine wear.
I would also suggest halving their oil change intervals as well.

I would like to see other’s test results posted to see the wear and tear on our engines as owners rack up the miles.
 

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+1 on oil analysis.

I recently had a similar "fuel in oil" discovery on one of my vintage cars when I sent it in for analysis.

I had the car on a racetrack, and it was running strong, with absolutely no indication of a problem, except for a suddenly-dropped oil pressure. It went from 70 psi to no more than 20 psi.

There was no overheating of oil or coolant, no smoke out of exhaust, no detonation, no stumbling, no oil smell or fuel smell.

Once back in the paddock, I opened the hood and the engine was cool enough to put my hand on the valve covers. Definitely hadn't overheated. The oil on the dipstick was clear and smelled clean. The oil level was near full. There was no fluid leaking or dripping anywhere. Radiator was full.

Had to be an oil pump, we figured. Or an oil pressure gauge/sending unit.
I put the car on my trailer and took it home.

Back at the shop, the oil gauge/sender checked out good. I decided on an oil analysis before doing anything else.

The analysis revealed fuel in the oil. As well as lead (from the 110 octane leaded race gas I was running at the track.) And some iron.

I had busted a piston ring, and blown part of the intake manifold gasket. But, the baffling part is how normally and smoothly the engine had continued to run. I've damaged/blown-up other engines in my day, and I know what that feels like. This didn't feel like that.

Lesson learned, and noted. If we'd merely replaced the oil pump, as everyone thought the culprit was, and not done an oil analysis, we wouldn't have suspected the ring. Like I said, there was zero smoke or any other of the usual suspects.
 

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2-3k mile intervals should be the norm. If you are running E85, it’s even more critical


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yes agreed they even make special oil for people that run E85. my builder suggested it. I have the name in a email somewhere but forget off hand. I get first oil change for free so I will use that when its time then I am going to swap to the oil he suggested.
 

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Be interesting to chat with Blackstone Labs to see how many samples they have in their "stock motor" group now for comparison. They've been among the highest volume labs and having a solid read on "what's normal" helps a lot particularly with wear metals. They'll also give you solid recommendations on change intervals

Cam lobe and guide wear can also be a sign of too much valve spring. The cam manufacturer should recommend (or ideally provide) a spring suitable for the application. A fair number of builders will take what they think is a "conservative approach" so they can spin the motor an extra 1000-1500 RPM by on packing in a set of super-stiff Ferrea (or Ferrea doubles) that are way too much for the rest of the valvetrain and turn cam gears, cams, etc. into consumables. Not knocking Ferrea in any way, great springs, just have to get the right ones for the rest of the supporting drivetrain.
 

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yes agreed they even make special oil for people that run E85. my builder suggested it. I have the name in a email somewhere but forget off hand. I get first oil change for free so I will use that when its time then I am going to swap to the oil he suggested.
What kind of oil is that? I am switching to e85 in the next couple weeks!
 

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yes agreed they even make special oil for people that run E85. my builder suggested it. I have the name in a email somewhere but forget off hand. I get first oil change for free so I will use that when its time then I am going to swap to the oil he suggested.
What kind of oil is that? I am switching to e85 in the next couple weeks!

Interested in getting an answer on this as well and what should be my interval. 2K miles seems really especially low when the manuals says not to exceed 6K.
 

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It didnt say to change every 2K Miles. this oil had something to do with water and pistons. I will get the exact name from him today for sure.
 

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Ill try my best to relate the info over. Its not a special oil its a cleaner. I was confused by the name "Marvel Mystery oil" he said use that as water get on top of the pistons. this stuff will clean it off. I have never used it so no clue just what he told me.

He also said to change the oil every 2500 miles. the E85 gets in the oil and brakes it down faster. No clue on that either

I will look into the Marvel Oil stuff to see if I will use (not sure on that one yet) but I will def listen to him on changing the oil every 2500 miles. I normally use Mobil 1 but not if I am going to change it so soon ill use reg oil now.
Hopefully someone has more info on either of these subjects?
 

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Ill try my best to relate the info over. Its not a special oil its a cleaner. I was confused by the name "Marvel Mystery oil" he said use that as water get on top of the pistons. this stuff will clean it off. I have never used it so no clue just what he told me.

He also said to change the oil every 2500 miles. the E85 gets in the oil and brakes it down faster. No clue on that either

I will look into the Marvel Oil stuff to see if I will use (not sure on that one yet) but I will def listen to him on changing the oil every 2500 miles. I normally use Mobil 1 but not if I am going to change it so soon ill use reg oil now.
Hopefully someone has more info on either of these subjects?
Sounds like Seafoam - which I was always told to stay away from putting this stuff along with octane boosters in our engines. Would love to hear from those that do.
 

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Sounds like Seafoam - which I was always told to stay away from putting this stuff along with octane boosters in our engines. Would love to hear from those that do.
he did mention the sea foam and said this was like that but way better. the guy talks way above me and half the **** he says I have no clue about. But I am for sure gonna look into that marvel stuff first before I use it.
The changing of the oil I will prob just do that and see what others are doing also. That was the only part that makes sense to me and my very limited knowledge of E85 and what it does to motors.
 

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LOL you know whats funny he also said I should get a can of "Torco Accelerator" fuel additive just in case I get stuck on 91 only. I guess he has seen his fair share of low octane fuel.
I guess we will always have two sides saying complete opposite things. I dont know **** so I do have a can in my spare tire compartment just in case I cant get E85. I found 4 stations all around me so I doubt that will happen.
 

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This really surprises me, especially when you're using Amsoil. Are you running their signature series oil or standard? Amsoil typically uses high amounts of ZDDP and detergents to combat wear and contamination issues. I've been running it for years in my 800+ whp (soon to be 1100 whp} turbo Honda S2000 and when I was on the stock block making 800 whp (record setting) and had it torn down to have Jeremy Allen of Inline Pro build it, they said the internals were perfect and had no wear. The stock bottom end of the S2000 F20c has super tight tolerances also btw. I ran the high ZDDP standard Amsoil 10w40 at that time and was on e85.

I did though, always change the oil every 1000 miles, being I was using e85 and is just a weekend street beast.

For what it is worth, I'd stick with oil changes at 2k-3k miles when running e85 and 4k-5k when running pump gas with the TH, that's just me though. I'm super anal about this.

Really sad to hear about this though, yet curious what happened.
 
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