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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Pulled out the spare and related equipment (only if you have the tow package). Felt like nearly 100lbs but didn’t put it on a scale. Gonna drop the tire pressure to around 28 and see how those 0-60 times look in comparison. I figure there’s no point hauling around this weight unless I’m actually towing something, in which case I’ll put it back in.
 

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They put them in, they must be able to be removed. Doubt it’s too difficult to pull out a seat. A few bolts and the electrical for the seat warmers. Maybe the seatbelts.....
 

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Don't want to burst anyone's bubble, but removing 100 pounds from a 5400 vehicle isn't going to be anything you're gonna feel.
If it gives you 0.02 sec, I'd be surprised.

If you're a pro racer, yes of course, remove everything not absolutely essential.
But for us street guys, I'd rather have the spare tire and back seat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
No reason to carry around extra weight either (speaking for the spare). If I actually ever tow something, then I’ll put it back in, but why carry that weight all the time for no reason.
 

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Rear seats are EZ to remove. However they are HEAVY and awkward! Get a friend to help and go easy with removing all the hardware. The smaller seat sits on top of the larger seat bracket. You will have to snake through- between the seats with an extension and swivel socket to get to a couple of the bolts. You need an 18mm and I think the small bolts are 13 or 12. Bolts are hidden under plastic covers that snap off near the tracks. You will find the bolts are all very tight and turn hard. They use a lock-tight of sorts on those bolts. The side C pillar belts are bolted to the seat bracket. You can bolt that belt back to that location after the seat is out to keep it from flopping around. The center belts must be totally removed and are on mounted the floor under the seat. To remove the C pillar belt, you will be taking apart C-pillar trim. There are also some smaller filler pieces between the seat and cargo area. This will take about 30 minutes to do ( if you have an impact wrench and air rachtet and it will take at least 100 lbs off, maybe a lot more. You have tons of room after. I have a large dog and he loves it back there. As long as I'm not in sport mode :)

Weight always matters. A lot of little's equal a lot. Especially when its up high like on our Trackhawk's'

The Drag racer rule of thumb is 100 lbs equals a tenth. I have found that to be very accurate with 10 second to 13 second street cars. The street cars I mess with are of course lighter at 3500 to 4400 lbs. so being these are a bit heavy it will be less of a gain. Keep whittling away at that weight and don't forget your improving cornering and braking as well.

There are only 4 things to make anything go fast. More power, less weight, more grip, less aerodynamic drag.
Well.. we got decent grip and plenty of power....
 

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Maxedout: I don't disagree...weight matters. But I would like to see the timed difference in ETs 0-60 and 1/4 mile. I would be amazed if 100 pounds equals a tenth in a heavy beast like our Jeeps. I'd be happy with a 0.05 gain.

I've been racing for 35 years (drag and road racing) and have driven more than 2000 vehicles in instrumented performance testing for a major car magazine.

The fifth thing to make a vehicle quicker/faster: Proper gearing.
 

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I removed my rear seats for a MSHS race earlier this year and will not do that again. What a lot of work. I am sure it made a difference but I am not that serious...will be doing tune/pulley to get where I want..
 

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I think some of you mix up speed and acceleration. Traction: wider tires add to resistance and max straight line speed is achieved with the narrower tire. Gearing: as long as one gear is optimized for top speed, all other gears only serve acceleration. In the end weight reduction serves what purpose? If you wanted to safe fuel, buy the SRT ... or some Hybrid. If you wanted to race, by a race car. Enjoy having a monster and a big dinner - who cares that you had a 10 oz steak with a loaded potato, or do you eat salad to cut your times for a possible race at a possible red light meeting with a wannabe? By the way, reducing tire pressure will slow you down! As long as you have no spinning wheels, you want to reduce, not increase work the tire absorbs! A low pressure tire is deformed and power goes into continuous deformation. With much higher pressures the tire stays round and possibly less tire touches the road (again not to the point of spinning), resulting in - theoretically - better acceleration and top speed. As I said before, a tenth here or there, who cares? I drive high tire pressures for tire durability and without the spare as I keep tools and stuff down there. Certainly not to be “faster” 🙂
 
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