[Double G]

Couple questions, what psi radiator cap did you go to. Some use same psi and others use ones that are rated 2-3 psi more that stock.

I have the std FI supercharger spacers and seen 1" spacers but have not seen 2" spacers. Does yours use the same engineered plastic and oring sealing design as the std FI spacers? I have seen sealing failures with the aluminum spacers made by others as they use different orings than FI.

You are spinning your supercharger dangerously hard with a 2.56/10% combo especially at 6,800, how may psi boost are you making with that combination?

 

[Double G]

I'm running 18+ psi on a 2.85/9% IW lower combo and considered trying a 2.75 upper but not sure if I want to push 19 psi on a stock bottom end. A 2.65 or especially a 2.56/10% at 6,800 RPM is spinning past efficiency zone of the stock IHI supercharger and typically on borrowed time. Might be time for a Whipple 3.0. 😉👍

22 psi is getting up there (little surprised the stock ported supercharger can push that) but have only heard of lifting a head at about 24psi boost with stock head bolts. Studs are definitely a great idea. 👍

 

[Double G]

Ah, that makes more sense as I was wondering how 2" spacers would clear the hood and inner firewall. 😉

Are you on the stock bottom end yet? If so that's impressive! But yeah, pushing that much boost you may be squeezing past the head gaskets so switching to studs is a good move. 👍

Your injectors are good but have you been monitoring your injector duty cycle on E85 in colder weather? I added a dual boost a pump just as extra insurance that I have enough fuel supply.

 

[Double G]

Oof, Is that what I think it is? 🤔 Piston top edged missing and the top ring peeking out.😬 I can't believe there is no impact marks on the top of the piston or cylinder head. 🤷‍♂️

Same thing different piston at the top, but what is going on here at the bottom? Another piston chip possibly?

You are running a ton of boost so it's hard to say why it happened as the spark plug electrodes appear to be intact which seems odd if the damage was caused by a lean condition.

 

[Double G]

Sorry to hear about the condition of the pistons, but it's awesome that the cylinder walls and cylinder head appear to not be harmed. 😃

The current spark plugs don't look too bad overall, so likely the original damage happened back when the electrodes melted off. Cylinder temps got pretty high at one time to eat the plug electrode possiblly from a lean condition that the piston deck above the top ring likely had enough at that point. 😵

Have you done many hard/long pulls with 1/4 or less tank of fuel? Possibly is was just fuel starved at one time. 🤔

Running such an aggressive boost/pulley combination I'm guessing you have a dedicated E85 only tune as it is just too much for a flex fuel tune IMO without a pulley swap. Maybe you just got a tank of "bad" E85 once.

Sounds like you are a confident mechanic from your original observations and to dig in this far already. Keep sharing what you find as it's good for the community to learn from everyone's experiences. Both good and sometimes bad unfortunately.

 

[Double G]

Well, looks there is piston blow by and then there is total blow out, 😳 so it looks like Lil Hemi unfortunately wins 🏆 the engine paperweight club contest today. 😉

..... Also a club I hope to never be a member of, just say'n. 🤞

Overall everyone's situation will be different on what happened to cause engine failure, but it often revolves around a moment of fuel starvation or an unexpected "bad fuel" situation.

When pushing high boost levels and increased ignition timing for large increases in horse power, the healthy engine fuel quality and fuel supply requirements narrow significantly where steps to increase this margin of safety are highly recommend.

I agree that an ECA (ethanol content analyzer) is a good investment to consider when burning 🔥 pump E85.

I am using a Zeitronix ECA gauge hidden in my glove box for piece of mind.

 

[Double G]

Great positive attitude 👍 and I hope everything comes together very soon for you. 🙂

Your 1300 injectors are a great choice and should be large enough running E85. They also have great drivability if you have the need to run (and idle) on 93 octane. However it is a good idea to keep an eye on your injector duty cycle (especially in colder conditions) running E85. You should not need bigger lines or fuel rails to meet your fuel needs.

You likely already know this but if not .... BAP kits only amplify the voltage to the fuel pumps to overdrive them while the engine is under heavy acceleration. During part throttle cruising BAPs are "off" and the pumps operate at stock voltage.

Two "dual" BAP options available that are triggered differently, JMS and Kenny Bell.

The JMS is triggered by a predetermined throttle pedal position no matter what the supercharger boost is at.

The Kenny Bell is boost pressure triggered, so anytime your boost is 5 psi or greater the KB BAP is on no matter the throttle position.

Personally I am running the Kenny Bell Dual boost a pump sold for the Demon and TrackHawk as we have two fuel pumps from the factory.

No need to drop the fuel tank for installing a BAP, the wiring is easy peasy with snap together plug and play wiring harness connectors. The two fuel pump control modules are located under the rear seat bottom on the driver's side so easy to get to.

I mounted my BAP controller just behind the rear seat and in front of the spare tire storage area. It sits hidden in a void under the rear hatch floor that has plenty of space around it to keep it cool.

There is a wide spring loaded carpeted door on the rear hatch floor that drops down when you fold the rear seats forward. If you flip up this little door you will see the area I used.

 

[Double G]

Personal preference, but most people just run a boost reference adapter on the side of the supercharger lid such as this >>> Hellcat/Demon Boost Reference Adapter

The pressure sensing Hobbs switch connects to this adapter and triggers the KB BAP to do its think when boost 5 psi or greater. Nothing really wrong with this location, as many use the adapter successfully and can attest to, but you are technically moving the black TMAP sensor out of the direct air stream that I wanted to avoid doing so. Plus my engine compartment setup is both for show and go so I wanted this connection hidden.

Others simply drill and tap the back of their supercharger lid while building their engine for a hidden boost reference port. However both of these options are in pre intercooler locations and I wanted my boost reference to be after the intercooler bricks sensing the actual boost going into the engine. So I drilled and tapped my supercharger housing while I had it off. Totally overkill but I am comfortable with that. 😉

Note the supercharger is upside-down in this photo so my BAP fitting actually ends up on the passengers side after the intercooler brick and just above the supercharger spacer plate.

Here is the right side up view of the boost reference fitting and hose.

I was able to mount the Hobbs switch to the driver's valve cover and hide it under the plastic valve/cover plate for optimum visual/show appearance. 😉

You can also see my ethanol gauge content sensor installed parallel to the fuel crossover line as to not restrict or starve the driver's side cylinders of fuel.

 

[Double G]

Sucks you are going through this but great news your parts are now on hand, what is the displacement going to be?

Good idea on the BAP addition.I know you are rebuilding your engine, but 100% have your tuner make the necessary changes for the BAP or you may be doing all of this again soon if you don't. 😉

 

[Double G]

Double G which sensor for ethanol? I’m about to get the Demon one and Skip tells me it’s a pretty quick install.

I'm using a stand alone (not tied into my flex fuel tune) ECA-2 Zeitronix Ethanol Content Analyzer so I can monitor the E content of the fuel I am burning.